In the flooring trade, "polishing" means coating. After a floor is sanded back to bare timber, layers of a protective finish go on top. That finish decides how the floor looks, how well it stands up to boots, dogs and sand from the beach, and how much upkeep it needs. Choosing it is the most important decision you'll make after deciding to sand.
Geelong Floor Sanders doesn't apply finishes. We're an enquiry service that, with your consent, passes your details to an independent local floor sander once one is appointed. This page is a plain guide to the main finishes so you can have a useful conversation when you get a quote.
Sanding and polishing are two halves of one job
People search for "floor sanding" and "floor polishing" as if they were separate services, but on a timber floor they almost always come together. Sanding removes the old coating and damage. Polishing seals and protects the bare timber. You can't put a new full finish on a worn floor without sanding first, and you shouldn't leave a sanded floor uncoated. The exception is a recoat, where an intact finish is lightly abraded and given a fresh top coat. Our screen and recoat page covers that.
The floor sanding page explains the sanding stage in detail. This page is about what goes on afterwards.
The main types of finish
Solvent-based polyurethane
This is the traditional "oil-based" floor finish, and it's still common because it builds a hard, glossy film at a lower price. It warms the colour of the timber straight away and keeps ambering over the years. That suits red and brown hardwoods such as jarrah or spotted gum, but can make pale Victorian ash or Tasmanian oak look yellow. The smell is strong, drying is slow, and most households move out for two or three nights while coats go on.
Water-based polyurethane
Water-based finishes dry clear and stay close to the natural colour of the timber. They have far less odour, coats dry faster, and many people stay in the house. Single-pack products are softer. Two-pack water-based products, where a hardener is mixed in, are much tougher, and they're the version to ask about if you have children or pets. Expect to pay a few dollars more per square metre than solvent-based finishes.
Hardwax oil and penetrating oils
Oils soak into the timber rather than sitting on top as a film. The result is a natural, low-sheen look that feels like wood underfoot. Scratches can often be patched with a rag and more oil instead of a full re-sand. The trade-off is maintenance: oiled floors need re-oiling every few years, and spills need wiping up quickly.
Specialty systems
Some floor sanders offer UV-cured coatings or commercial-grade two-pack systems that can be walked on very soon after application. They cost more and are less common in regional areas, but they're worth asking about if downtime is your main worry.
Matching the finish to your house
Busy family homes and pets. A two-pack water-based polyurethane or a solvent-based polyurethane with a matt or satin sheen will hide scratches best. Gloss shows every mark.
Period homes with pine boards. Pine is soft, so any finish will dent more than it would on hardwood. A satin or matt water-based finish keeps pine from turning orange over time.
Coastal homes on the Bellarine and Surf Coast. Sand is an abrasive. Doormats, a tough topcoat and a sensible maintenance coat in the high-traffic hallway help more than any single product.
Rentals and pre-sale jobs. Durability and turnaround tend to matter most. Water-based finishes reduce the time a property sits empty.
Kitchens and entries. These areas wear fastest. Some contractors add an extra coat in high-traffic zones.
Sheen: gloss, satin or matt
Sheen is about appearance, not toughness. Gloss reflects the most light and shows scratches, dust and footprints clearly. Satin is the most common choice in Australian homes because it hides everyday wear and still looks finished. Matt gives a raw-timber look that has become popular, especially on lighter floors. Sheen usually costs nothing extra within the same product range, so it's worth asking to see a sample board on your own timber before you decide.
Moving back in
Each product has its own drying and curing times, and the contractor should give you written instructions. As a general guide from finish manufacturers:
- Light foot traffic in socks is often possible within a day of the final coat.
- Light furniture can often go back after about 48 hours. Lift it, don't drag it, and put felt pads on the legs.
- Rugs should usually stay off for about a week while the finish fully cures.
- Solvent-based finishes take longer than water-based finishes at every stage.
Typical costs
Published 2026 Australian guides list a full sand with three coats at about $30 to $45 per square metre for solvent-based polyurethane, about $35 to $50 per square metre for water-based, and about $40 to $55 per square metre for hardwax oil. Premium two-pack systems sit at the upper end or above. These are national ranges, not a quote for your floor. Our prices page has the full table and sources.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between floor sanding and floor polishing?
Sanding removes the old finish and surface damage to expose clean timber. Polishing is the coating applied afterwards to seal and protect it. On a worn floor the two are done as one job, which is why most quotes are for "sanding and polishing".
Should I choose a water-based or solvent-based finish?
It depends on your timber and how you live. Solvent-based polyurethane is hard-wearing and usually cheaper, but it smells strongly, takes longer to dry and yellows over time. Water-based finishes stay clear, have low odour and dry quickly, and two-pack versions are very durable. On pale timbers most people prefer water-based finishes. On red hardwoods the ambering of solvent-based finishes can look good.
Which sheen hides scratches best?
Satin and matt hide everyday scratches, dust and footprints far better than gloss. Gloss looks striking straight after coating but shows wear quickly, especially with pets.
When can we move back in and put furniture back?
Follow the contractor's written instructions for your product. As a guide, socks-only walking is often fine within a day, light furniture can return after around two days, and rugs should stay off for about a week. Solvent-based finishes need longer, and most households stay elsewhere while those coats are curing.
Is a polished timber floor a good choice with dogs?
Yes, with the right finish. Choose a hard-wearing product, such as a two-pack water-based or a solvent-based polyurethane, in a satin or matt sheen, and keep claws trimmed. Expect some fine scratches over time. A maintenance recoat every few years keeps the protective layer from wearing through.